Bonarda Wine from Argentina: Not Just for Wine Geeks

When Argentine wine comes up in conversation, Malbec is usually the main topic. Mention Bonarda, another red grape, and eyes will almost immediately glaze over.

Which is odd, because Bonarda is the second most planted grape in Argentina after Malbec, representing nearly 10% of all grapes planted there.

Bonarda, like Malbec, is not native to Argentina. Bonarda is identical genetically to the Italian grape variety Charbono, which has a tenuous hold in California, but its numbers there are dropping fast in favor of more fashionable grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon.

Charbono’s (Bonarda’s) fall in California is a bit of a shame, because it is difficult not to like. The best versions have a deep, inky color, soft tannins, plummy fruit, lower alcohol and enough acidity to freshen the palate. These wines epitomize refined easy drinking.

One reason why Bonarda wine is a mystery to most American wine drinkers (besides the name) is because most of it is consumed within Argentina, but thankfully the drop of Bonarda exports to the U.S. is now a trickle.

Producers such as Mendoza’s Tercos are leading the charge, crafting a vibrant Bonarda wine from one of the highest elevations in the Andes. The wine has no oak, giving the crisp, pure fruit a chance to sing.

If you’ve never had a Bonarda wine from Argentina, it’s reminiscent of a Cru Beaujolais with darker fruit and higher acid. Tercos is an excellent starting point.